‘Kiku’ (Chrysanthemum) with the rain pattern

Katagami stencil depicting chrysanthemums, an autumnal flower, combined with a rain pattern. Chrysanthemums symbolize longevity and rejuvenation, and they are very special flowers in Japan given their close ties to the Imperial family. These golden blooms symbolize the emperor and the Chrysanthemum Throne, the Imperial Seal of Japan, and the Supreme Order of the Chrysanthemum. The round shape of the Kiku pattern is also reminiscent of the sun and it was popularly used in the costumes of the actors and Oiran Geisya. Chrysanthemum Katagami pattern were sometimes combined with the rain pattern for Kimono design to give a feeling of motion with ‘iki’ (sophisticated) expression. This is one of around 400 Japanese katagami stencils which are part of the Silver Studio Collection. The stencils were produced in Japan as a way of applying patterns to fabric, mainly kimonos. The katagami collected by the Silver Studio were used by their designers as reference material to produce their own Japanese-inspired patterns. This Katagami employed the Itoire technique. This is one method of silk thread reinforcement in Katagami. Itoire was a detailed technique which was applied to Katagami by veteran female artisans at Shiroko, Ise, from about 1750. Itoire was used until 1920. See Markham, Mamiko (2018): Katagami technique Itoire. Middlesex University Journal contribution. https://doi.org/10.22023/mdx.6477776.v1