‘Sakura’ (Cherry Blossom) with chequered pattern katagami stencil

This Katagami is high quality and is considered to be made during the first golden age of Katagami business - 1753 to around 1852. 'Sakura' (Cherry Blossom) pattern has been favoured by Japanese since the Heian period (794-1185). It symbolises new beginnings, renewal (early Spring), beauty and the transience of life. It is said that Hanami (cherry blossom viewing) parties were held and the cherry blossom pattern is painted in the hopes of a good harvest. The Cherry blossom pattern was popularly used in the costumes of Oiran Geisya and wearing second hand Cherry blossom kimonos was popular among common people during the Edo period (1603–1868). Many Ukiyo-e Cherry blossom Kimono prints were produced, promoting the pattern of actors and Oiran geisha costumes. This is one of around 400 Japanese katagami stencils which are part of the Silver Studio Collection. The stencils were produced in Japan as a way of applying patterns to fabric, mainly kimonos. The katagami collected by the Silver Studio were used by their designers as reference material to produce their own Japanese-inspired patterns. This Katagami employed the Itoire technique. This is one method of silk thread reinforcement in Katagami. Itoire was a detailed technique which was applied to Katagami by veteran female artisans at Shiroko, Ise, from about 1750. Itoire was used until 1920. See Markham, Mamiko (2018): Katagami technique Itoire. Middlesex University. Journal contribution. https://doi.org/10.22023/mdx.6477776.v1