‘Oimatu’ (Old pine tree) and ‘Mokume’ (Grain) design

This Katagami pattern features the 'Oimatu' (Old pine tree) and 'Mokume' (Grain), which gained popularity in Ukiyo-e Kimonos from around 1830 (end of Edo) to 1880 (early years of Meiji). Shimamura is believed to have produced such Katagami patterns influenced by the Kabuki Opera in Edo city. That was because many Kabuki fans at that time wished to imitate the actors of Kabuki Opera. Each element has a meaning related to longevity. 'Oimatu' in this pattern is said to be a symbol of longevity as pine trees with a substantial trunk often lived for about 700 years. In this Katagami, the 'Oimatu' pattern expresses the meaning of enlightenment over the years. 'Mokume' is annual growth rings on the cross section of the pine tree and it expresses the rugged life force that enjoys longevity. This is one of around 400 Japanese katagami stencils which are part of the Silver Studio Collection. The stencils were produced in Japan as a way of applying patterns to fabric, mainly kimonos. The katagami collected by the Silver Studio were used by their designers as reference material to produce their own Japanese-inspired patterns. This Katagami employed the Itoire technique. This is one method of silk thread reinforcement in Katagami. Itoire was a detailed technique which was applied to Katagami by veteran female artisans at Shiroko, Ise, from about 1750. Itoire was used until 1920. See Markham, Mamiko (2018): Katagami technique Itoire. Middlesex University. Journal contribution. https://doi.org/10.22023/mdx.6477776.v1